Rabbit Care Information

A general guide to keeping rabbits happy and healthy, based on guidance from the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF), PDSA and other reputable welfare organisations. This page is for general information only and doesn't replace advice from your own vet.

Five Welfare Needs Housing Diet Company Health Problems Vaccinations Neutering When to Call a Vet Weekly Health Checks

The Five Welfare Needs

Under UK law (the Animal Welfare Act 2006), anyone responsible for a rabbit must meet five welfare needs. These form the basis of good rabbit care:

A Suitable Environment

Somewhere safe to live, with room to exercise, hide and rest.

A Suitable Diet

Unlimited hay/grass, fresh greens, water and a small amount of pellets.

To Behave Normally

Space to run, jump, dig, forage and stand fully upright.

Suitable Company

Rabbits are highly social — ideally housed with another bonded rabbit.

Protection From Harm

Protection from pain, injury, suffering and disease, with prompt vet treatment when needed.

Housing & Exercise

A hutch alone is not enough. RWAF's "A Hutch Is Not Enough" campaign highlights that rabbits confined to small hutches can develop painful spinal problems, muscle wastage and behavioural distress from being unable to express natural behaviours.

RWAF's minimum space recommendation for a pair of average-sized rabbits is a single continuous area of at least 3m x 2m, with a height of at least 1m so rabbits can fully stand up on their hind legs without their ears touching the roof. Rabbits should have permanent, round-the-clock access to this space — not just a few supervised hours a day.

Whether housed indoors or outdoors, rabbits need daily opportunities to run, jump, dig and forage, plus a safe place to hide and rest. Wild rabbits naturally cover a large area each day, so more space is always better than the minimum.

Source: Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund — "A Hutch Is Not Enough" campaign and space recommendations.

Diet

RWAF's evidence-based feeding guidelines recommend the following daily balance:

85%

Good quality hay or fresh grass, available at all times. This is the single most important part of a rabbit's diet — for both gut and dental health.

10%

Fresh leafy greens from a rabbit-safe list, introduced gradually to avoid upset stomachs.

5%

Good quality pellets/nuggets, measured out properly (around 15g per kg of bodyweight) rather than guessed.

Fresh, clean water should always be available. Sugary treats, muesli-style mixes, and large amounts of fruit should be avoided or kept to a minimum, as they can contribute to obesity, dental disease and digestive upset. Any change in diet should be introduced gradually.

Source: Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund — feeding guidelines and "Hay and Health".

Company

Rabbits are sociable animals and, in most cases, shouldn't live alone. Welfare organisations recommend keeping rabbits in neutered, bonded pairs or small groups wherever possible. A rabbit living alone can become bored, stressed or depressed, even with plenty of human attention.

Guinea pigs are not considered suitable companions for rabbits — they have different dietary and social needs, and rabbits can unintentionally injure guinea pigs. Bonding introductions between rabbits should always be done gradually and, ideally, with guidance from your vet or a rescue experienced in bonding.

Common Health Problems

Rabbits are prey animals and instinctively hide signs of illness, so problems can progress quickly before they become obvious. Knowing what to look for really matters.

Emergency

GI Stasis

A rabbit's gut slows down or stops, often triggered by pain, poor diet, dehydration or stress. It can become life-threatening within hours.

Signs: not eating, few or no droppings, hunched posture, lethargy, teeth grinding.

Action: contact your vet immediately — this cannot wait.

Emergency

Flystrike

Flies lay eggs on soiled or damp fur, usually around the tail and bottom; these hatch into maggots that can cause fatal damage within hours. It's the leading recorded cause of death in pet rabbits in the UK.

Signs: fly eggs or maggots in the fur, distress, odour, a dirty or wet bottom.

Action: emergency vet treatment — check bottoms daily, twice daily in warm weather.

Serious

Dental Disease

Rabbit teeth grow continuously. Without enough hay to wear them down evenly, teeth can become overgrown or develop painful spurs.

Signs: drooling, dropping food, reduced appetite, weight loss, watery eyes.

Action: book a vet check — check weekly for early signs at home.

Serious

Myxomatosis & RVHD1/RVHD2

Serious, often fatal viral diseases spread by biting insects or direct/indirect contact, affecting both pet and wild rabbits.

Signs (myxomatosis): swelling around eyes/face/genitals, weepy eyes, lethargy, breathing difficulty.

Action: prevention through annual vaccination is far more effective than treatment — see below.

Manageable

Ear Mites & Parasites

Cause itching, head shaking and crusty debris in the ears.

Signs: scratching, head tilting, visible crusting inside the ears.

Action: your vet can confirm the cause and prescribe safe treatment — don't use unprescribed products.

Manageable

Obesity & Sore Hocks

Excess weight increases the risk of flystrike, arthritis and painful pressure sores on the back feet (bumblefoot).

Signs: difficulty self-grooming, reduced activity, sore or bald patches on the hocks.

Action: ask your vet about a healthy weight and diet plan.

Unneutered female rabbits (does) are also at very high risk of developing uterine disease, including cancer, as they age — this is one of the main reasons welfare organisations recommend neutering (see below).

Sources: RWAF, PDSA, Woodgreen and Scottish SPCA rabbit health guidance.

Vaccinations

Vaccination is the most effective protection against myxomatosis and both strains of Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD1 and RVHD2) — combined vaccines covering all three are available in the UK and are usually given annually. Vaccinated rabbits that do catch these diseases generally have much milder symptoms and a far better chance of survival than unvaccinated rabbits. Speak to your vet about the right vaccination schedule for your rabbit.

Neutering

Welfare organisations recommend neutering both male and female rabbits. Benefits include:

A significantly reduced risk of uterine disease in females as they age
Calmer, less territorial or aggressive behaviour in both sexes
The ability to safely bond rabbits together without unwanted litters
Easier litter training in many cases

Ask your vet about the right age and timing for neutering your rabbit.

When to Call a Vet Immediately

Treat these as an emergency

Not eating, or eating much less than usual, for more than a few hours
Few or no droppings, or noticeably smaller droppings than normal
Any fly eggs or maggots seen in the fur, or a persistently dirty/wet bottom
Laboured or noisy breathing
Head tilt, circling, flickering eyes, or loss of balance
Sudden collapse, seizures, or unresponsiveness
Bleeding, visible injury, or a suspected attack by a cat, dog or fox — even if your rabbit looks unhurt, shock and hidden injuries can still be serious
Straining without producing droppings or urine
Severe lethargy, hunching, or hiding away and not moving normally

If in doubt, call your vet — rabbits hide illness well, and acting quickly genuinely saves lives.

Weekly Health Checks

A quick weekly once-over helps catch problems early. Gently check:

Teeth: feel along the jaw and look at the front incisors for overgrowth or sharp edges
Eyes, nose & ears: check for discharge, crusting, or head shaking
Coat & skin: look for bald patches, matting, or parasites
Bottom & tail base: check daily (twice daily in summer) for soiling, eggs or maggots
Nails: check for overgrowth, splitting or bleeding
Weight & body condition: feel along the spine and hips for sudden weight change